Isle of Capri

Buongiorno! Today was an absolutely fantastic day. We awoke reasonably early again and tucked into our free breakfast. We had been in two minds whether to spend the money to go to Capri or to save the money due to our backpackers budget. Our rationale for choosing to go was that we had multiple friends who have been in the past and read multiple reviews online, each and every account of this place state how amazing it is and we figured we can earn more money but may never have the opportunity to go to the Isle of Capri again in our lifetime. We found the cheapest way was to catch the public ferry, it was €38pp which is still quite pricey for a 20min boat ride.

Katy and I gathered our belongings and set off for the port of Sorrento. It was a bit of an effort to walk there using google maps as Sorrento is a maze but eventually we managed to make our way to the main port. We bought tickets to the next ferry and waited in the shade for it to arrive. We sat top deck of course (to take in the views) even though it was about 32 degrees outside. Before the boat left we were both melting in the open sunshine but as soon as the boat started to move we got a nice cool ocean breeze. 💨

The views from the boat were spectacular. On the right we had Mount Vesuvius in the distance with Naples and Pompeii visible, on the left was the Amalfi coastline in all its glory and straight in front you, you could see the rugged landscape of Capri in the distance.

The boat didn’t take too long and before we knew it we were at the main port of Capri.

There is a funicular that runs up the hillside to the main town up the top. The line for the funicular looked to be at least an hours long and google said it was an 18min walk- but we knew it was almost directly upwards.

Nonetheless we decided to make the trek up the hill to save us both time and money. By the time we got to the top we were just as sweaty as you can imagine. In fact, we were so dehydrated and thirsty we paid €3 for a litre bottle of cold water- probably more than the cost of the funicular.

Once at the top we were greeted with the streets and streets of boutique style shops mixed with designer labels and fancy jewellers, along with a lovely view of the north-west of the island.

I immediately thought of all the shopaholics in my family and how they would absolutely love this place. I tried very hard to get gifts for people but as I’m on the boat home writing this I didn’t manage to justify not 1 gift. I found a lovely watch my grandma would love, but the face was very small and it said “Milano” on it and I figured I would’ve liked Capri jewellery as I can get Milano jewellery in Milan later on. Lots of jewellery and handbags etc caught my eye for gifts but they were either too expensive, too large to transport or just weren’t quite suited.

Katy and I had a ball shopping even though neither of us bought anything. The shops were heavily air-conditioned and most of them had a token dog to pat. I even found a nice cardigan for myself that was unique to Capri and would’ve been a great memory but I couldn’t justify €90 for it. Capri seems to take pride in their watch brand “Capri watches” and I thought I would find one of them I liked but the only one I found I liked apart from a Rolex was a Maserati watch and it’s €400 price tag steered me away very quickly. As we had read online, Capri is a heaven for the rich- it housed every designer shop and expensive store you can think of, most of them having special edition lines of clothing made exclusively for Capri. This island and town are incredibly beautiful, all the superlatives in the world don’t do them justice, but I would advise anyone on a budget or without money to spend to think carefully about your visit.

There’s always a way to see a place on your budget and we proved just that today. We couldn’t afford to eat at any of the restaurants but we still had a delicious healthy lunch from the bakery for under €10. We paid the €1 entry to the botanical gardens where we sat for a good 90min reading our books and chillaxing in the shade, this was one of our greatest decisions.

The coastline around the whole island is peppered with boats everywhere, that’s understandable as it’s so popular and looks amazing from the perspective of the water. We essentially walked the entire town of Capri up and down and saw all of the shops and even sampled their lemon slushie (this area of the world is famous for everything lemon).

There is another town called Anacapri a short bus ride away but we didn’t have time to visit that one. From what we have read it is similar but less busy and geographically smaller.

Our boat home was booked for 5:30pm so we had an hour to kill, Katy and I decided we were super hot and sweaty and a quick dip in the ocean would be just what we needed. Luckily we had anticipated this this morning and threw our swimmers into our bag for the day. We made our way down the mountain which was a lot easier than going up and arrived at the only beach on this side of Capri.

Capri is not really known for its beaches. It is famous for things such as “The Blue Grotto” and it’s rugged rough coastline where you can hire boats to steer around the island to see. The beaches are added in parts for convenience of the tourists and there’s no sand- it’s all pebbly rocks but the water is still crystal clear and lovely and warm.

After awkwardly changing in front of some Italian men who weren’t even trying to hide the fact they were looking, we dumped our stuff on the coastline and jumped into the busy blue waters to cool down.

This is yet another place where our European rock shoes came in handy (best. purchase. ever!) We anticipated 30min swim quite well and dried off before walking the 5 min to the pier and find our boat.

After incorrectly walking the entire length of the peer we realised our boat was actually docked at the exact opposite side. Although it seemed very close/just in front of us, it was in fact a long walk all the way around the crescent shaped pier. Luckily we were 20min early, the walk around took us 15min and we safely boarded our much bigger vessel, bound for Sorrento.

The rest of the night is a bit “ditto” to be honest. We had a shower and we’re hungry so headed straight out to dinner. We went to the closest shop as it’s the cheapest we knew and we had lunch here our first day and it was friendly and delicious. After tanning a pizza and a pasta (typical) we strolled home through the warm summers night and packed our bags. Early morning tomorrow so we’re all packed and into bed early.

I certainly enjoy writing these blogs as it enables me to look back and reflect on just how great my day was. I’m trying not to take it all for granted and really soak in the fact that we are on the opposite side of the world, in some of the most amazing picturesque corners of the earth. No need to worry about us fam- we’re having an absolute ball. 🕺🏼

Arrivederci 🚶🏼‍♂️ M

Beach hopping in Milos

Today started as every morning should; with coffee and croissants. We headed to the cafe on the corner of our street to fill us up for the morning so we could get going as we were heading south. There were 3 beaches on our list today; and with the weather acting much nicer today than yesterday; we wanted to see them all.

First stop was a beach called Fyriplaka beach. It’s a typical Greek postcard beach – white sand and pale blue water. What they don’t show you is that to get to the sandy bit you have to get into the water (ankle height) and traverse the rocks. When we arrived just before 11 it was still fairly quiet. This isn’t a fully manned beach so there were a few sun loungers with parasols but mostly people brought their own umbrellas or we saw a few with pop up tents. This brings me to my next point about the lack of shade. There are no trees or businesses on this beach; the beach comes out of the massive rock wall so there’s very minimal shady spots and they’re taken early. The beach gets a lot of sun and – thankfully today – not much wind. We managed to find a hole in the wall (this is a legitimate description) where I tucked my towel into so I could keep my top half covered. Mitch hopped on a free sun lounger. We chilled on the beach for a bit and headed into the water when we got too hot. The water is perfect, not as clear as some of the other beaches we’ve visited but the dreamiest colour. A must see if you’ve got some sturdy shoes to go over the rocks with.

We left after a few hours so we could hit up our next stop – Tsigrado beach.

Word to the wise. Don’t bother going to this beach if you are scared of heights, not particularly agile or don’t have a baseline level of fitness. There’s a warning at the top that says “do this at your own risk”.

The views from the top of the hill are STUNNING. It’s another beach that kind of emerges from the rock wall again. However to get down to the beach is a semi workout in itself. It involves a version of unassisted abseiling over the side of the cliff, climbing down 2 wooden ladders and squeezing yourself between the rough rock face (I have the scratches to prove this). Plus all the sand makes even the flattish bits slippy. The girl in front of us was so scared I thought she was never going to get to the bottom – I assume all the shouting she was doing in Greek was blaming her boyfriend for bringing her there. She caused a bit of a traffic jam on the way down so it definitely can get busy.

Once at the bottom, I’ll be honest there’s very little room. The actual sand isn’t all that spectacular either. However the water, again, is amazing. We kept our water shoes on from the climb down and spent our time in the water jumping from rock to rock. There’s lots of big and small rocks that are submerged which if you have your handy dandy water shoes; you can climb on top with ease and jump straight back off. This beach gets deeper much quicker than the last. One of the bigger rocks I jumped off of, I was surprised I don’t touch the bottom since the water is still that pale blue colour.

We didn’t stay long here since the space was cramped and the ladder back up was free.

Our last beach of the day was Agia Kiriaki beach. There’s one restaurant on the beach and sun loungers available to hire. We opted to get some food first though. The food is nice (maybe a little pricey) and don’t assume that burger automatically means it comes with a bun! By the time we had eaten lunch I thought it would be a waste of money to hire a lounger for a couple hours so we found a shadyish spot under a tree, read our books and enjoyed the afternoon sun. Mitch went for a walk and said the water was warm and the rocks are completely white there.

After a long day in the sun we hopped back on the bike and picked up some snacks and water for the room before showering and heading for dinner. Still doing food on the cheap as we’re tying to be conscious of our money and Greece is turning out to be more expensive than expected.

Until tomorrow! – Katy xxx

Quad biking around Santorini

Ooh look at us being consistent with our posting! I’m actually impressed we’ve managed to keep it up this long.

As I type this we’re on the boat heading to Ios so I have an hour to explain our entire quad biking adventure. We started early at 9:30 with most of our tour group deciding they wanted to tour the island on quad with Stefanos as our guide. This is a popular way to get about as it’s not too expensive and, if you have the little box on the back, you can carry all your essentials for the day.

The tour started with us leaving our hotel and travelling north to Oia [pronounced Ee-yah]. This is the the where the domes with the blue roofs are that everyone gets a picture of. Very typically Greek. We stopped to let everyone re-group; have a look around and get some lunch. Pre-warning that it’s a bit more pricey for lunch here and anything with a view of the sea pushes the prices up even more. It’s a touristy, quaint little spot and also very busy during the summer months. I’ve heard the sunset here is breathtaking but we had to have our bikes back before 9 so we would be pushing time to see the sunset and return the bike.

I, of course, got my insta pic with the blue domes. I considered getting one on the stairs until I realised it was someone’s house.

From here we travelled to see the red beach. It’s a beach made from the compressed ashes that fell on the ground after a nearby volcanic eruption. It’s a really striking colour and we would have loved to stay and swim but the beach didn’t have any sun loungers or parasols; and my fair Scottish skin can’t take that long in the sun. This was the longest solid stretch of biking we had during the day, made much worse by the fact our bike was defective and slowed to a crawl at the mere sight of an incline.

We hopped back on our bikes and headed to a swimming spot that Stefanos recommended. Thankfully it was mostly downhill. It was another black sand beach with slightly choppier water that the others we’ve been to. It was actually really nice to just float in the waves with our friends and talk rubbish.

That was until one lone giant wave wiped me out. I tried to go side on when I realised it was going to be taller than me and subsequently lost my sunglasses in the water. We had a look for them and even asked a wee boy wearing a snorkel if he could see them in the water. I was resigned to the fact that they were gone. Ocean – 2 Ray-bans – 0. I decided to see if they had gotten swept back in when a man in front of me caught my attention waving my lost sunnies! It’s a Santorini miracle! Also lesson learned to stop wearing sunnies in the ocean.

Mitch and I also got to test out our ugly swim shoes and can confirm that while ugly, they are very comfortable and practical for the stoney beaches of Europe. 100% would recommend they be in everyones suitcase if you’re a big beach bunny.

Look mum I’m in the shade!

We were a quick 15 mins from the hotel at this beach so as it got a bit cooler we all split off to head back to the hotel pool for some drinks and a swim.

We got ready and headed for our last dinner as a full group (some of the people on the tour finished here rather than in Ios). Dinner was ok, we weren’t blown away but Stefanos got us up for a bit of traditional Greek dancing which in a tiny restaurant was a great laugh since everyone got involved. We meandered through other guests tables while they clapped us along, we even got some Greek diners up to teach us as well. Wish I had a video but alas I was dancing.

We ended with a drink overlooking the water. Shout out to Angelo and his google phone for this sick last picture.

See you in the next blog post. – Katy xxx